Last updated: June 2026
The short answer
The Curly Method has changed significantly since its inception. What was once often seen as a strict set of rules is now much more of a gentle guide to caring for natural curls. Back then, Lorraine Massey emphasized principles such as: no sulfates, no silicones, no dry brushing, no high heat, and often no traditional shampoo.
Today, the Curly Method is practiced in a more flexible and personalized way. It’s no longer about following every rule to the letter. What matters much more is the question: What do my curls really need?
The core of the method, however, has remained the same: natural curls don’t need to be straightened, hidden, or tamed. They need gentle cleansing, moisture, silicone-free products, high-quality ingredients, and a routine that suits their texture.
Why Lorraine Massey's idea was so special back then
These days, it’s become much more common to proudly wear natural curls. Waves, corkscrew curls, coils, and Afro textures are everywhere—on social media, in tutorials, and in product photos. For many people, this feels almost normal now.
But for a long time, the exact opposite was true. Natural curls were often described as difficult, messy, dry, unruly, or frizzy. Many people with curly hair grew up feeling that their curls were something that needed to be tamed, straightened, or somehow “tamed.”
So they straightened their hair, brushed it dry, blow-dried it on high heat, treated it with chemicals, or weighed it down with heavy products. Not because people with curly hair didn’t like their natural texture, but because often no one had shown them how to properly care for their curls.
Lorraine Massey brought a completely different perspective to the world of curly hair:
Your curls aren't wrong. Maybe they've just never been properly understood.
Back then, it was almost revolutionary. Instead of fighting curls, she focused on their natural texture. Curls should no longer be treated like straight strands, but rather for what they truly are: delicate, thirsty, vibrant, unique, and beautiful.
What made the original Curly Method unique
The original Curly Method was significantly stricter than many of the modern routines we know today. It emerged as a deliberate counter-movement to harsh cleansing, drying products, and styling habits that often weakened natural curls.
Among the most important principles were:
- No harsh sulfate shampoos
- no silicones
- no drying alcohols
- Do not dry brush
- No intense heat from flat irons or hot hair dryers
- more moisture for your curls
- greater respect for the natural curl pattern
The goal wasn't to create perfect curls every day. It was about bringing the natural shape back into view.
Many people with curly hair have discovered for the first time through this method that they didn’t actually have “problematic” or simply frizzy strands. They had curls. They just never knew how to care for them.
How curly hair care often worked before the Curly Method
Before Lorraine Massey’s approach, traditional hair care focused heavily on smooth textures. Shampoos were supposed to be as strong as possible. Conditioners were meant to make the hair’s surface appear smooth. Styling products were designed to quickly tame frizz and keep curls as still as possible.
For natural curls, this was often a cycle of drying out and over-styling.
First, the curls were thoroughly washed, which caused them to lose moisture. As a result, they looked dry, frizzy, or lifeless. Then, heavy-duty products were used to make them look smoother, more manageable, or more controlled again.
Many people with curly hair know exactly how this feels: right after washing, their curls look great for a short while, but just a few hours later, they’re dry, frizzy, or lack definition.
The Curly Method challenged this cycle. It didn’t say, “You need more control.” It said, “Your curls need more moisture, more gentleness, and less struggle.”
Why "No-Poo" Was So Important in the Beginning
A key element of the original method was "no-poo." This means avoiding traditional shampoos. Instead, the hair is gently washed with conditioner or a co-wash.
The idea behind it was simple and practical: Natural curls are often drier than straight hair. The scalp’s natural oils don’t reach the ends as easily because of the curls’ coils.
When highly cleansing shampoos are used on top of that, the curls lose even more moisture. No-Poo was therefore not just a passing fad in the beauty world, but an attempt to finally treat curls differently: more gently, in a way that preserves moisture, and with greater respect.
Why many people with curly hair still use mild shampoo today
Over time, it has become clear that co-washing alone isn't suitable for every scalp or every type of curl.
Some people with curly hair tend to get product buildup more quickly. Others notice that their roots get heavy or their scalp itches. Still others feel that their curls aren’t bouncy anymore because too much product or styling residue has built up.
That’s why modern Curly often use mild, sulfate-free shampoos or gentle cleansers. This isn’t a contradiction to the Curly Method. It’s an evolution of it.
After all, healthy, bouncy curls don’t start at the ends. They start with a scalp that’s clean, balanced, and healthy.
Why silicone-free skincare remains a cornerstone to this day
One principle from the original Curly Method remains particularly important to this day:
Curly hair needs care that doesn't weigh it down or seal it in.
Silicones can coat curls like a smooth film. This may make them feel soft and look shiny in the short term. However, natural curl care isn’t just about making the surface look more attractive.
Curls need to be cared for over the long term. They need to stay hydrated, remain supple, and be allowed to show off their natural shape.
That is why natural curl care continues to focus on silicone-free products, plant-based oils, moisturizers, gentle cleansers, and styling products that add definition without weighing the curls down unnecessarily.
The idea behind it is simple:
Beautiful curls aren't created by covering them up. They're created through understanding, care, and loving support.
Why dry brushing used to be taboo
One of the best-known rules of the Curly Method is: Don't brush your hair when it's dry.
And that rule still makes a lot of sense today.
When dry curls are brushed, the naturally clustered strands are separated from one another. The shape breaks down, frizz sets in, and the definition is lost.
That’s exactly why many people have spent years thinking they didn’t have real curls. They’ve been brushing their hair dry every morning and then wondering why it looks frizzy, dry, or shapeless.
When it comes to curly hair, timing makes a big difference. Brushing dry hair can disrupt its texture. Detangling while the hair is wet, with conditioner or another styling product in it, can be very helpful.
Why brushes are making a comeback today
Modern curly hair care takes a more nuanced approach to brushing than in the past. For many people with curly hair, brushing dry hair is still not a good idea. However, using a styling brush on wet hair can really help bring out the beauty of curls.
Many people with curly hair now use special brushes to distribute styling products evenly and shape their curls more precisely.
This can help with:
- more definition
- better bundling
- even product distribution
- neater curls
- more bounce
- a more controlled approach to styling
The main difference lies in how it is used. In the past, people often brushed their hair when it was dry to straighten or tame curls. Today, people brush their hair when it is wet to enhance its natural texture.
The Bounce Curl brushes. They help to beautifully define curls and add more shape to individual sections during styling.
In the past, brushing often meant combing out curls. Today, using the right brush can mean bringing out curls in a targeted way.
How Social Media Has Changed the Curly Method
Social media has been an incredible boon to the curly-haired community. Today, people with curly hair can find tutorials, before-and-after photos, product recommendations, routines, and reviews from others with similar curl patterns.
That's wonderful, because it makes many people feel seen for the first time.
At the same time, social media has created a bit of a pitfall: many people expect perfect results right away after watching just one video. Someone with thick 3B curls shows off their routine, and Lockenkopf fine 2A waves buys the exact same products.
The result is often disappointing: the curls end up weighed down, lose their shape, or feel sticky.
The problem, however, isn't the Curly Method. And most of the time, it isn't the product either.
The problem is that not every routine works for every type of curl.
Why Porosity Has Become So Important Today
One major difference between the original Curly Method and modern curly hair care is today’s understanding of porosity.
Porosity describes how well your curls can absorb and retain moisture.
Curls with low porosity often absorb products more slowly. Products tend to sit on the surface, and formulas that are too rich can weigh the curls down.
High-porosity curls often absorb moisture quickly, but they also lose it more quickly. They often require more protection, regular care, and sometimes strengthening ingredients.
This knowledge makes curly hair care much more personalized. Instead of just asking, “Is this product suitable for the Curly method?”, we’re more likely to ask today:
Is this product really right for my curls?
Moisture, protein, and the right balance
In the early days of the Curly Method, the focus was very much on hydration. And yes, hydration remains incredibly important for curls.
But modern curl care takes a closer look these days. That’s because sometimes curls need not only more moisture, but also more strength.
Proteins can help maintain the curl structure, especially in:
- dyed curls
- bleached curls
- heat-damaged curls
- very porous curls
- Curls that look limp or lackluster
- Curls that lose their shape quickly
At the same time, a delicate touch is needed. Too much protein can make curls feel hard, straw-like, or brittle. Too much moisture can make them soft, limp, or over-conditioned.
That’s why modern Curly is no longer just about the question: “How can I get even more moisture into my curls?”
Today, it's really more about balance:
What are my curls really missing right now?
The Curly Method is no longer a rigid set of rules
Perhaps that’s the best change of all: today, the Curly Method is seen less as a strict set of rules and more as a toolkit.
For some people with curly hair, co-washing works wonders. Others need a mild shampoo. Some love gel for strong hold. Others feel more comfortable with a light curl cream. Fine waves often require very little product. Tight coils usually benefit from more care and richer textures.
So there isn't one perfect Curly routine that works for everyone.
There’s only one routine that’s right for your curls, your scalp, your daily life, and your needs.
What hasn't changed since Lorraine Massey
Even though the Curly Method has become more flexible today, its core principles remain remarkably clear.
Curls need gentle care.
Curly hair needs moisture.
Curly hair benefits from silicone-free, natural care.
Curly hair doesn't like harsh cleansing.
Curly hair should not be constantly exposed to high heat.
And above all: Curls aren't wrong.
This last point is perhaps the most important one. After all, the Curly Method was never just a hair care routine. It was also a new way of looking at natural curls.
The Curly Method Then vs. Now
| Back then | Today |
|---|---|
| Very strict no-poo | Gentle, sulfate-free cleansing tailored to your scalp and curl type |
| Dry brushing was clearly avoided | Styling brushes can be useful when your hair is wet |
| Strong emphasis on moisture | A balance of moisture, protein, nourishment, and cleansing |
| Clear rules | Custom Routines |
| Silicone-free as a key principle | Silicone-free products remain a cornerstone of natural curl care |
| Less emphasis on porosity | Porosity, density, and curl type play a greater role |
| One method for many | A toolkit for all your curling needs |
Who is the Curly Method suitable for today?
The Curly Method can be a wonderful guide for many different hair textures:
- soft waves
- strong waves
- classic curls
- cork-screw curls
- Coils
- Afro textures
- frizzy curls with natural movement
- Curls that have lost their shape due to heat or improper care
The important thing to remember is: Not every routine works for every head of curls.
Fine waves often require less product and lighter textures. Thick curls often need more care. Dry coils have different needs than 2A waves, which tend to get weighed down quickly.
That’s exactly why it’s not worth just copying any old routine you find online. It’s much better to pay attention to your own hair and figure out, step by step, what really works for it.
If you're unsure which products or routine are right for your curls, feel free to send a photo of your curls along with a brief description of your challenges to lockenkopf.
You can also book a personal video chat with Rosamaria or try our Curl AI LILA . You LILA at any time in the bottom right corner of your browser window at
How to get started with the Curly Method today
If you're just starting out, you don't need a complicated routine with countless steps. Especially in the beginning, less is often more.
Start with a simple basic routine and see how your curls respond.
1. Gently cleanse your scalp
Choose a mild, sulfate-free shampoo or a gentle cleanser. The cleanser should keep your scalp clean without drying out your curls.
2. Silicone-free care
Use a silicone-free conditioner or hair mask. You don't just want your curls to look smoother—you want them to be truly nourished.
3. Detangle while wet
It’s best to detangle your curls while conditioner or a hair mask is still in your hair. This makes it easier for your fingers or a brush to glide through your curls without unnecessarily damaging the hair’s structure.
4. Styling very damp curls
Many styling products work best when your hair is still damp. This helps the strands cling together better and enhances their natural shape.
5. Let your curls dry as naturally as possible
Whether you let your curls air dry or use a diffuser, try to touch them as little as possible while they’re drying. This helps prevent frizz and enhances definition.
6. Keep an eye on your curls
Do they get heavy quickly? If so, you probably need to use less product or opt for lighter textures. Do they look dry? If so, they might need more moisture. Are they losing their bounce? If so, protein or a stronger styling product might help.
Why naturalness is more important than perfect curls
The world of modern curls can be pretty overwhelming at times. Everywhere you look, there are perfect before-and-after photos, shiny curls, flawless routines, and shelves stocked with products.
- But natural curls aren't the same every day.
- Sometimes they fall beautifully.
- Sometimes they have a mind of their own.
- Sometimes all they need is water and a little leave-in conditioner.
- And sometimes they need a full washing routine—and still a little patience.
That's normal. Curls are alive. They react to the weather, humidity, sleep, hormones, products, styling, and even how you treated them on wash day.
The Curly Method shouldn't mean that your curls have to look perfect every day. It's meant to help you better understand your natural texture and treat it with more care.
What Lorraine Massey's message still means today
Lorraine Massey didn't just introduce a hair care routine. She helped many people see their natural curl pattern in a new light:
- Not a problem.
- Not as a flaw.
- Not as something that needs to be smoothed out.
- But rather as part of one's own beauty.
This message is just as valuable today as it was back then. Perhaps even more so, because the world of curly hair is now full of trends, product recommendations, and opinions.
The essence of it all remains calm and clear:
Work with your curls. Don't fight them.
Bottom line: The best Curly method is the one that works for you
The Curly Method has evolved. It has become more modern, flexible, and personalized. But its core principles remain the same.
Gentle cleansing. Silicone-free care. Less heat. More moisture. More understanding. More naturalness.
Back then, the goal was to free curls from a beauty industry that constantly sought to straighten, control, or weigh them down.
Today, it’s all about taking good care of your curls and finding a routine that really works for you.
Perhaps that is precisely the most wonderful aspect of the Curly Method: it is no longer a rigid set of rules. It is an invitation.
An invitation to get to know your curls. To observe them. To experiment. To understand them. And to finally give them what they really need.
Because beautiful curls aren't created through control. They're created through understanding.
