Dear curlyheads,

You often ask me what I think about the Curly Girl Method and how it works. To provide some clarity here, I would like to dedicate this blog post to the Curly Girl Method:

The Curly Girl Method

Lorraine Massey, the inventor of the Curly Girl method, first introduced it in her book "Curly Girl: The Handbook". The basic idea behind this curl care method is to completely avoid chemical products and shampoos in order to help curls achieve their purely natural and, above all, healthy form. By avoiding harmful ingredients such as sulphates, silicones and alcohols, the curls should retain their moisture and retain their natural structure.

The Curly Girl Start

First, you should completely free your curls from chemical and silicone-containing product residue by cleaning your curls with a silicone-free shampoo or cleansing shampoo. This step allows your hair to rebuild its natural protection, which makes your curly crown shine even more beautifully.

When you start with this method, it is possible that your curls will become dull at first until the natural protective layer has been rebuilt.

The Curly Girl steps

1. Final Wash - one last wash with sulphate.
Most "conventional" products contain chemical ingredients that are harmful to curls, such as silicone, which clings to your hair and makes it look soft and supple, but has the exact opposite effect. Silicone prevents the important nutrients from penetrating the hair and dries it out internally. At the same time, it takes relatively "harsh" products to rinse the silicone from the care & styling products out of your hair, which further depletes your curls. You should therefore wash your curls one last time with a shampoo containing sulphate before you start using the Curly Girl products.

You can really use any conventional shampoo for this (Dove, Nivea, Fructis, Head & Shoulders...etc.)

2. Co-Wash - Not for every curl
I am often asked about co-washing, but I don't recommend it so much for European curls, as it can weigh down the curls, causing them to lose their shape and be pulled “flat”. Your hair can also appear greasy and unkempt. I would use it if the curls are very strong and pronounced or tend towards Afro curls - i.e. curls that are not so easily pulled “straight” by products that are too heavy.     

2. shampoo - also for Curly girls
After you have done the "final wash", only use sulphate-free shampoos for your curls, as you can find them at lockenkopf . The only exception is if you have been to the hairdresser and conventional products have been used, or the hair has been chemically colored, then the curls must be "freed" again with a final wash.

You use the shampoo as often as necessary, but as rarely as possible. The guideline is about 2-4 times a month, but every curl is different, find the right rhythm for your curly crown. 

If you tend to use shampoo more often (e.g. after sport) then use very little shampoo and concentrate mainly on the scalp and roots. This cleans the roots and frees them from the body's own grease without drying out the ends of the hair (the oldest hair) too much. The curls are continuously replenished with oil by the skin so close to the scalp.      

3. Hair mask - for healthy, radiant curls 
I would use masks about every 1 to 4 weeks to give the curls everything they need in a concentrated form. If you use a curl mask, you should rinse the curls with warm water beforehand, as this opens the hair cuticles and prepares the curls for the mask in the best possible way. The mask can work even better if you put a shower cap (plastic) over your hair and then a winter hat, or a warming hat like the one from Hot Head. The two layers create more heat and the mask can penetrate your hair even better. Leave it on for about 45 minutes, then rinse and continue with conditioner to close the hair cuticles again.

4. Conditioner - The best friend of your curls
The conditioner is probably the most important product in the shower. It closes the hair cuticles and at the same time locks in the moisture in the hair. This helps you to comb your curls more easily. Because it is the tangling hair cuticles that can make combing curls so unpleasant. 

On the days you're not washing your curls with shampoo, just use conditioner to rinse your hair. So, wash with water, comb the conditioner through with your fingers, then detangle (comb) your curls and rinse. 

Basically, always finish with conditioner in the shower!      

Despite all its benefits, you should never apply conditioner (or styling products) to your scalp, because the effect that's desired in the hair (sealing the hair cuticles for easier combing & longer moisture retention) is definitely not desirable for the scalp! Here too, the conditioner would clog the skin's pores, which can lead to itching, dandruff, or an overproduction of oil on the scalp.            

5. Drying - different for curls 
Curls absolutely hate being rubbed dry with a terry towel – it's the best way to get frizz! 
Instead: divide your curls into sections and squeeze out the excess water by hand, or put an old t-shirt over your hands (or even better, a microfiber towel) and lift the curls up and squeeze (scrunch). This helps to press the curls into shape a bit, and only removes the excess water without the curls getting tangled, frizzy, or losing their shape. (Rubbing dry = Frizz)       

6. leave-in - defining curls
The leave-in bundles and defines your curls, while moisturizing your hair at the same time. The leave-in is combed into towel-dried or wet curls. To do this, rub some onto the palms of your hands and comb it into your locks with your fingers, combing the curls again as required. Finally, scrunch. Scrunching helps your curls to get into even better shape.
To give your curls more life and bounce, start with the styling products about a hand's breadth away from your head. Especially with finer hair, Wavy and Curly textures, the curls stay lighter this way.

7 Gel & Mousse - Keeps Defined Curls in Shape 
Use gel to set your curls defined by the leave-in. Rub the gel on your palms as well and comb through the curls with your fingers, scrunching again at the end. 
Deciding whether to use gel or mousse is a personal choice. Mousse gives you more volume but less hold, while gel usually gives you a better hold. In my experience, it's almost always a matter of personal preference.            

8. Drying, Take Two - Let Styled Curls Dry 
Once you've finished styling your curls, the next challenge is how to let them dry?
It's best to let curls air dry, or use a diffuser with the heat setting on cold. This is because air that is too hot can dry out the curls and make them frizzy. 
And most importantly: while they're drying - DON'T TOUCH THE CURLS! 

I know it's hard, but it's worth it. Touching them while they dry disrupts the definition of the curls, and the dry crown then becomes frizzy again.  

The Curly Girl rules  

1. No shampoo with sulfates, no styling & care products with silicone  
2. No chemicals, no silicone, no sulfates, only organic products
3. Rinse curls with COLD water
4. No brush or comb when dry
5. Dry: Microfiber towel, T-shirt, or air dry
6. No heat
7. No Toca – don't touch curls while drying
8. Trim ends regularly (about every 6 weeks)
9. No harsh hair ties
10. You have curls, be proud of them and give them plenty of love!

 Curly Girl Method & Me    

I think it's a good way to give your curls a fresh start, and you quickly find out what's right for your own curls; and you adopt that. But I still wash my curls with shampoo every now and then (100% natural, of course). But what I've really found to be a revelation is the 'no touching' while drying.        

After drying my curls, I take a little oil, rub it on my palms and 'grab' into the curls from underneath. This adds some shine and protects the curls.    

So, I hope this sheds some light on the Curly Girl method.

See you soon!

Yours,

Rosa Maria