Last updated: June 2026
The short answer
The Curly Method has changed significantly since its inception. What was once seen as a strict set of rules is now much more of a loving guide to natural curly hair care. Back then, Lorraine Massey focused on principles such as: no sulfates, no silicones, no dry brushing, no high heat, and often no traditional shampoo.
These days, the curly is being approached in a more flexible and personalized way. It’s no longer about following every rule to the letter. What matters much more is the question: What do my curls really need?
However, the core of the method has remained the same: Natural curls don’t need to be straightened, hidden, or tamed. They need gentle cleansing, hydration, silicone-free care, high-quality ingredients, and a routine that suits their texture.
Why Lorraine Massey's idea was so remarkable at the time
These days, it’s much more common to see people proudly wearing their natural curls. Waves, corkscrew curls, spirals, and Afro textures are everywhere on social media, in tutorials, and in product images. For many people, it feels almost normal these days.
But for a long time, the exact opposite was true. Natural curls were often described as difficult, messy, dry, wild, or frizzy. Many people with curly hair grew up feeling that their curls needed to be tamed, smoothed out, or “managed” in some way.
So they get their hair straightened, dry-brushed, blow-dried, chemically treated, or weighed down with heavy products. Not because people with curly hair don’t like their natural texture, but because often no one had shown them how to really take care of their curls.
Lorraine Massey brought a completely different message to the world of curly hair:
Curly hair isn't a bad thing. Maybe it's just never been properly understood.
That was almost revolutionary at the time. Instead of fighting curls, she focused on their natural texture. Curls should no longer be treated like straight hair, but as they truly are: delicate, thirsty, lively, unique, and beautiful.
What the original Curly entailed
The original Curly was much stricter than many of the modern routines we know today. It was created as a deliberate counter-movement to harsh cleansing, drying products, and styling habits that often weakened natural curls.
The most important principles were
- No harsh sulfate shampoos
- No silicone
- No drying alcohols
- Do not dry brush
- No intense heat from flat irons or hot hair dryers
- Moisturizing spray for curls
- More respect for the natural curl pattern
The goal wasn't to create perfect curls every day. The point was to bring out the natural shape.
Many people with curly hair have realized for the first time that their hair wasn't "problematic" or just frizzy. They had curls. They just never knew how to take care of them.
How curly hair care used to work before the Curly
Before Lorraine Massey’s approach, traditional hair care focused heavily on smooth textures. Shampoos had to be as strong as possible. Conditioners were meant to smooth the surface. Styling products were designed to quickly tame frizz and keep curls as stable as possible.
For natural curls, this was often a cycle of drying out and covering up.
First, the curls were thoroughly washed. This caused them to lose moisture. As a result, they looked dry, frizzy, or limp. Next, heavy-duty products were used to make them look smoother, more manageable, or more controlled again.
Many people with curly hair know this feeling: right after washing, their curls look gorgeous, but a few hours later they’re dry, limp, or frizzy.
The Curly challenged this cycle. It didn’t say, “You need more control.” It said, “Your curls need more moisture, more softness, and less struggle.”
Why "no-poo" was so important in the beginning
A key element of the original method was "no-poo." This means that traditional shampoos are not used. Instead, the curls are gently washed with conditioner or a co-wash.
The idea behind it was simple and sensible: natural curls are often drier than straight hair. The natural oils produced by the scalp don’t reach the ends as easily because of the curls.
When highly stripping shampoos are used on top of that, the curls lose even more moisture. “No-poo” was therefore not just a passing fad in the beauty world, but an effort to finally treat curls differently: more gently, with better moisture retention, and with respect.
Why do so many people with curly hair still use mild shampoo today?
Over time, it has become clear that using only shampoo is not suitable for every scalp or every type of curl.
Some people with curly hair are more prone to product buildup. Others notice that their roots get heavy or that their scalp itches. Still others feel that their curls have lost their bounce because too much product or styling residue has built up.
That is why modern curly hair routines often use mild, sulfate-free shampoos or gentle cleansers these days. This is not at odds with the Curly . It is an evolution of it.
Because healthy, bouncy curls don't just start at the ends. They start with a scalp that's clean, balanced, and happy.
Why silicone-free care remains a priority to this day
One idea from the original Curly is still particularly important today:
Curly hair needs care that doesn't weigh it down or make it feel tight.
Silicones can form a smooth film around the curls. This may make them feel soft for a short time and add shine. However, natural curl care isn’t just about making the surface look better.
Curly hair requires ongoing care. It needs to stay hydrated, retain its elasticity, and be able to show off its natural shape.
That is why natural curl care continues to focus on silicone-free products, plant-based oils, moisturizing creams, gentle cleansers, and styling products that add definition without weighing curls down unnecessarily.
The idea behind it is simple:
You don't get beautiful curls by covering them up. They come from understanding, care, and loving support.
Why dry brushing used to be taboo
One of the best-known rules of the Curly Method is: don't brush your curls when they're dry.
And this rule is still very relevant today.
When dry curls are brushed, the naturally clustered strands are separated. The shape breaks down, frizz sets in, and the definition is lost.
This is exactly why many people have believed for years that they don't have real curls. They brushed their natural texture dry every morning and then wondered why it looked frizzy, dry, or shapeless.
When it comes to curly hair, timing makes all the difference. Brushing it when it’s dry can disrupt its texture. Detangling it while it’s wet, with conditioner or a styling product in the hair, can be very helpful.
Why brushes are making a comeback these days
Modern curly hair care takes a more nuanced approach to brushing than in the past. For many curly hairstyles, dry brushing is still not a good idea. Wet styling brushes, however, can provide excellent support for curls.
Many curling irons these days use special brushes to distribute styling products evenly and shape the curls more precisely.
This can help with:
- more definition
- Better bundling
- Uniform product distribution
- Gentler curls
- greater resilience
- a more controlled approach to styling
The main difference lies in how it’s used. In the past, dry brushing was often used to smooth out or control curls. Today, wet brushing is used to enhance the hair’s natural texture.
De Bounce Curl brushes are very popular. They help to beautifully define curls and give more shape to individual sections during styling.
In the past, brushing often meant combing out curls. These days, the right brush can help bring out curls.
How social media has changed the "curly-haired girl" method
Social media has done so much for the curly-haired community. These days, people with curly hair can find tutorials, before-and-after photos, product recommendations, routines, and testimonials from others with similar hair textures.
That's wonderful, because it makes many people feel seen for the first time.
At the same time, social media has also created a minor hurdle: Many people expect immediate, perfect results after watching just one video. Someone with thick 3B curls shows off their routine, and someone with curly hair and fine 2A waves buys exactly the same products.
The result is often disappointing: the curls are weighed down, look limp, or feel sticky.
But the problem isn't the Curly method. And it's usually not the product either.
The problem is that not every routine is suitable for every curl type.
Why Porosity Is So Important Today
A major difference between the original Curly and modern curly hair care is the knowledge we have today about porosity.
Porosity describes how well your curls can absorb and retain moisture.
Curls with low porosity often absorb product more slowly. Products tend to stay on the surface, and using a product that’s too rich can weigh the curls down.
High-porosity curls often absorb moisture quickly, but they also lose it more quickly. They often require more protection, regular care, and sometimes strengthening ingredients.
This knowledge makes curly hair care much more personalized. Instead of simply asking, "Is this product suitable for girls with curly hair?", we now usually ask:
Is this product really suitable for my curls?
Moisture, protein, and the right balance
In the early days of the Curly , the focus was very much on hydration. And yes, hydration remains incredibly important for curls.
But nowadays, we need to take a closer look at modern curl care. Because sometimes curls need not only more moisture, but also more body.
Proteins can help support the curl structure, especially in the case of:
- colored curls
- blonde curls
- curls damaged by heat
- very porous curls
- Curls that look limp
- Curls that lose their shape quickly
At the same time, it requires a delicate touch. Too much protein can make curls look stiff, straw-like, or brittle. Too much moisture can make them soft, limp, or over-processed.
That's why modern curly hair care is no longer just about asking, "How can I moisturize my curls even better?"
These days, it's more about balance:
What are my curls really missing right now?
The Curly Girl Method is no longer a rigid set of rules
Perhaps this is the best change of all: the Curly is now seen less as a strict set of rules and more as a toolkit.
For some people with curly hair, washing it with conditioner works great. Others need a mild shampoo. Some prefer gel for a strong hold. Others feel more comfortable with a light curl cream. Fine waves often require very little product. Thick curls usually need more care and a richer texture.
So there isn't one perfect routine for curly hair that works for everyone.
There’s only one routine that’s right for your curls, your scalp, your daily routine, and your needs.
What hasn't changed since Lorraine Massey
Although the Curly has become more flexible these days, its core principles remain remarkably clear.
Curls need softness.
Curly hair needs moisture.
Curly hair benefits from silicone-free, natural care.
Curly hair doesn't like aggressive washing.
Curly hair shouldn't be constantly exposed to high heat.
And above all: curls aren't a bad thing.
This last point is perhaps the most important one. Because the Curly was never just a hair care routine. It was also a new way of looking at natural curls.
The Curly Method: Then vs. Now
| Then | Today |
|---|---|
| Absolutely no poop | Gentle, sulfate-free cleansing, tailored to your scalp and curl type |
| Dry brushing was clearly avoided | Styling brushes can be useful when they're wet |
| Strong focus on moisture | Balance of moisture, protein, care, and cleansing |
| Clear rules | Custom routines |
| Silicone-free as a key principle | Silicone-free products remain at the heart of natural curl care |
| Less focus on porosity | Porosity, density, and curl type play a greater role |
| One method for many | A toolkit for individual curling needs |
Who is the Curly suitable for today?
The Curly can be a great guide for many natural hair textures:
- gentle waves
- powerful waves
- classic curls
- Curly potato peeler
- Rinsing
- Seals
- curls that fall naturally
- Curls that have lost their shape due to heat or improper care
The most important thing is: not every routine is right for every curly-haired person.
Fine waves often require less product and have a lighter texture. Thick curls often need more care. Dry curls have different needs than 2A waves that tend to get weighed down easily.
This is exactly why it’s worth taking the time to avoid simply copying a routine you found online. It’s much better to observe your own curls and figure out, step by step, what really works for them.
If you're not sure which products or routine are right for your curls, send a photo of your curls along with a brief description of your challenges to lockenkopf.
You can also book a private video chat with Rosamaria or our Curl AI LILA . You’ll LILA find LILA in the bottom right corner of the browser window at
How to get started with the Curly today
When you're just starting out, you don't need a complicated routine with countless steps. Less is often more, especially in the beginning.
Start with a simple basic routine and see how your curls respond.
1. Gently cleanse your scalp
Choose a mild, sulfate-free shampoo or a gentle cleanser. The cleanser should keep your scalp clean without drying out your curls.
2. Silicone-free care
Use a silicone-free conditioner or mask. Your curls shouldn't just look smoother—they need to be properly nourished.
3. Untangle it while it's wet
The best way to detangle your curls is to apply conditioner or a hair mask to the lengths of your hair. This makes it easier to run your fingers or a brush through your curls without putting unnecessary strain on the hair structure.
4. Style very damp curls
Many styling products work best when the curls are still damp. This helps the strands clump together more effectively and supports their natural shape.
5. Let your curls dry as naturally as possible
Whether you let your curls air dry or use a diffuser, try to touch them as little as possible while they’re drying. This helps prevent frizz and enhances their definition.
6. Take care of your curls
Is your hair getting heavy quickly? Then you probably need a lighter product or a lighter texture. Does it look dry? Then it might not be getting enough moisture. Is it losing its bounce? Then protein or a stronger styling product might help.
Why naturalness is more important than perfect curls
The modern world of curly hair can sometimes be a bit over-the-top. You see perfect before-and-after photos everywhere, shiny crowns of curls, flawless routines, and shelves stocked with products.
- But real curls aren't the same every day.
- Sometimes they come like a dream.
- Sometimes they have a mind of their own.
- Sometimes all they need is water and a little leave-in conditioner.
- And sometimes they need a full bath routine—and a little patience.
That's normal. Curls are alive. They react to the weather, humidity, sleep, hormones, products, care, and even how you treated them on wash day.
The Curly Method shouldn't mean that your curls have to look perfect every day. It should help you better understand your natural texture and treat it with more love.
What Lorraine Massey's message still means today
Lorraine Massey hasn't just popularized a hair care routine. She has helped many people see their natural curls in a new light:
- Not a problem at all.
- Not a mistake.
- Not something that needs to be smoothed out.
- But as part of her own beauty.
This message is just as valuable today as it was back then. Perhaps even more so, because the world of curly hair is now full of trends, product recommendations, and opinions.
The core remains calm and clear:
Work with your curls. Don't fight them.
Conclusion: the best way to curl your hair is to do it yourself
The Curly has evolved. It has become more modern, flexible, and personalized. But at its core, it remains the same.
Gentle cleansing. Silicone-free care. Less heat. More moisture. More understanding. More naturalness.
Back then, it was all about liberating curls from a world of hair care that was constantly trying to straighten, control, or weigh them down.
Today is all about taking good care of your curls and finding a routine that really works.
Perhaps this is the most wonderful aspect of the Curly Method: it’s no longer a rigid set of rules. It’s an invitation.
An invitation to get to know your curls. To observe them. To experiment with them. To understand them. And ultimately, to give them what they really need.
Because beautiful curls aren't created through control. They're created through understanding.
